Dumela! (Hello in Setswana, spoken in Botswana)
Nothing that happened and that mesecitos and a half trip, we say that we are fully immersed in the sabbatical = that great feeling of living continuously on Saturday. We enjoyed a lot every day, and possibly with more intensity (or, as least, more calm) just by knowing that this is not just the next day or the next, or ... in a long time yet. If, in addition, your days spent in "paradise" can not say we travel: practically float from place to place, without our feet touch the ground.
And is that these last two weeks have been dramatic. Had increasing expectations of Botswana, and the last before you get there feelings were somewhat discouraging. Apparently, the rainy season, along with a country focused almost exclusively on luxury tourism, could derail our dreams. Fortunately, it was not so at all, and we literally blown away with the North of the country (the delta of the river Okavango, which does not result in any sea because its water swallows the Kalahari Desert, and Chobe Park). And then, one of the wonders of nature uppercase, Victoria Falls (Zambia and Zimbabwe).
no words to describe these sites, so I hope the photos do a minimum of justice. But I say, for other things if I found words, and there are :-)
Our days in Botswana began in the most authentic. In our previous trips, use public transportation always has seemed the most direct and genuine way to feel something of the reality of the country, along with tourism "Showcase" that is inevitable to escape on many occasions. If the situation allows it (for logistical issues, security, etc.), We prefer to spend 15 hours in a ratchet antediluvian imbued with the true local environment, to make that journey in 1 hour by plane. And not just for economic reasons, but sometimes too. I would say that many of our best anecdotes in Mexico, Colombia, Egypt, Peru, and of course our 3 Interrail in Europe, have been on buses or trains. These are trips that experience always has supplied more than the occasional discomfort. And so far he had not yet experienced in Africa.
Well, what we wanted soup?, As it takes two cups! On the way from Windhoek, capital of Namibia, to Maun (gateway to the Okavango Delta in northern Botswana), we took 3 buses in which were the only whites (it goes without saying that also the only guiris) and exchange between the first and the second consisted of 2 short hours waiting in the middle of the road . Or bus station, or people, or even a gas station misera, "in this crossroads will come and you go down and a bus in the right direction. Or, are you doing hitchhiking." And we, with a pair =: -0 I think the picture to finally get on that bus, petado of people, with everyone staring at us (and you know as highlighted by the white-black eyes) ... no forget it for a while. The 13 hours to travel 800 kilometers accounted for almost an overdose of immersion in Botswana, for starters, and although it sounds like hard to believe, we enjoyed a lot. So much so that in later days we traveled a lot in here minibuses, which are simpatiquisimos: you see many different people, experiencing very strange ways of doing things (like spending the price of the ticket, and the change from hand to hand until reach the collector), sometimes they put African music with great rhythm, and you travel so tight that when someone wants to go out sometimes we have to download all before. Finally, for short distances, are the cane.
In Botswana people we love. They are friendly (say hello to happen is practically a command, you know it or not, and usually with a grin), very handsome (especially women), and are happy note. Speaking of happiness is getting into marshy ground, you can philosophize for lifetimes, and also is a topic that to move people in poor countries is happier. Because what is clear is that poverty, suffering when it means simply to survive , not cool at all. But when you pass that threshold and have at least one roof (of any kind) and eat on a daily basis, there is one aspect in which these people beat us to the West: the acceptance of their circumstances and enjoy life as it comes. This does not mean having no ambitions or concerns (As we mentioned in last entry), but they must be qualified and, above all, we can obsess and make us unhappy if not achieved.
rarely more apparent that we did that story shortly after his arrival to Chobe. After another full day of travel autobusillos, also very entertaining (and watching elephants from the bus!), We arrive at the campsite and we hit a dip in the pool. We exchanged 15 minutes of spontaneous conversation, initiated by him, a boy of 24 years very nice. In that short time was able to move the lights and shadows of his recent life. I was excited because after years of working in almost all types of employment for Tourist companies of his people (the Chobe area), in a few weeks is going to fire and found his own company. But, speaking a little of everything, is sincere with two strangers like us. Not only was still a little nervous because the night before had hit a huge male baboon monkey (huge dent in the car), but pulling that thread told us that last week a friend of his died in a collision with an elephant and that same day had buried another friend who had committed suicide after killing his girlfriend on a matter of jealousy (these if they are a universal feeling.) All this, and who talk about the football league. And always with a smile on your face. Is your life in these sites and accept their circumstances without fatalism think that makes them happier (I can not imagine the emotional state after another week I would be so).
We also love the passion with which the "drivers Mokoro (canoe you could say are the gondolas of the jungle, as you see in the pictures) carried out their work. We spent two days and one night with them, and you could tell they loved nature, but for them is the backyard of his home. After dinner we had a great time chatting in the light of what they call "the television of the forest" = a good fire. And we changed the channel by moving the logs :-) That if we do not have luxuries like a good shower, and even threatening to censor the blog we have posted fotillos enjoying some of the best outdoor showers that we have never given.
Well, it did not take or enter into Zambia, and was clearly moved on to "other" Africa. Already in no man's land between the border of Botswana and Zambia, the assault to which we subjected all kinds of gadflies trying to get something for tourists was a shock. It is true that the border is something special: the Zambezi river separates the two countries, and how to catch a ferry from one to another, you must put forward egg against the "bullies." But if Zambia is no longer so quiet walking down the street (always day, of course), Zimbabwe is out of scale. And it's all summed up, as I said, that much that is a huge leap coming from the West, the 3 countries that had hitherto known (South Africa, Namibia and Boswana) are, for various reasons, relatively calm and prepared for tourism. From up here, things change and it's another world, possibly excepting only partly in Kenya and Tanzania. So Far, another significant detail is the value of its currency, in Zambia you walk around with thousands and thousands of kwacha in your pocket. But in Zimbabwe, again, is out of control (as you may have heard), and the last ticket to be printed is 100 trillion dollars of Zimbabwe. No comments.
said, Zambia and Zimbabwe share the wonders of nature, Victoria Falls, well worth all these inconveniences that they are still rather anecdotal. Because, after all, so is Africa a reality, and had also come to experience it.
Useful information
Again, all this can be done well by yourself. Although we have not done so, if it fits in your schedule to come with the car rented from Namibia is a good option (though of course, then you have to return there), or else we have to enjoy as local buses.
As the time of year again, rain condition some possibilities. Probably more than in Namibia, Botswana, so I would say that something is a country best suited to come in the dry season, it fits. That said, seeing everything so green again is very, very nice. And at Victoria Falls is precisely when to come, because in dry season water is much less and lose a large percentage of showmanship (judging by the photos we have seen). And not just visual, but also environmental, noise is im-pressive, I would say Jesulin, and also the cloud of spray that looks from a distance. Okay, you get wet a tad (just chopaitos, hear), but it is also something unique, part of the experience.
we eat (and drink)
most authentic thing we tested was a dinner to fire camping in the Okavango Delta, on the basis of typical pure corn is the staple food of half Africa, and some meat with tomato sauce.
Other than that, in accommodation in Maun (which was great to see here Sabi sunbathing beside the river) ...
... try something very exportable when we return to the burger with fried plantains, delicious. And we drank liquor from the fruit of a local tree called Amarula, which is very rich ... though he knows almost like Bailey's.
Who know (worth mentioning)
In the Okavango we did a 4 day trip into the delta with 2 Germans, Jens and Anna, and an American, Daniel, with whom we had a good time. Also seems very healthy people who ran the accommodation in Maun, Botswana a target (and there you see very few) and an English escapades, all activity and good humor, who had traveled there to 8 years y. .. Never returned home! We understand it perfectly, really :-)
And on the bus route of the Chobe agree with Kim and Tine, two Belgian girls with a lot of life behind them, with whom we shared a few dinners and talks very interesting. There are a couple of characters. We have talked, among other things, a website to stay in homes of people who are going to test soon, and also encouraged us to submit the request for the best job in the world ( www.islandreefjob.com ) for which unfortunately arrived a day late .... because, with all due respect to those who rent hammocks on the beach in Tahiti, this offer was cool maaaaaazo. And if that did not come out, Eve and have a good idea to mount a negociete around, jarls!
happens to us over the head
We have discussed on several occasions what continues to surprise us (although we saw in Tanzania) the ubiquity of mobile. There is coverage even in remote villages, and is widely used regardless of the humility of the people. On one such trip by bus, a grandmother telling his family he went, and soon came out of the bushes (because there was nothing), to pick, which was to be her husband and son. We leave "ojiplaticos." They are also ubiquitous satellite dishes, especially for international football (how could it be otherwise). And finally, see strikes coupled with the mud huts, quite frankly.
Well, next Saturday with the feeling continued, but lately also have this one: the improbability that we will see many sites we visited. The more you travel, the bigger you think the world, and you'd like to meet so many new sites, unfortunately, it is difficult to have time in life to repeat the most. From there we feel like a few days at Victoria Falls. After using the triple time that most people enjoy this wonder of nature, time to "leave" we invaded that feeling of which I speak. When you see things as beautiful, it is inevitable expect to see them again a thousand times. "Why not?" Tells part of your mind is still childish. "Because ... va'ser not," he answers the adult: - /
Fortunately, time travel allows us to be children from time to time, and extend our stay in any other place that hooked us, which we have done in a couple of occasions. And our adult self and responsible, but the end is right and touches leave of every place, at least we are pleased to yell: "WE REMOVE THE BAILAO!"
.............
And finally, a note-putpurri many of these weeks:
- Although I had a haircut in Namibia, a site was relatively "posh" and, therefore, very dull. So I gave the shave in Maun (Okavango Delta) is the first truly authentic, in a hair salon for those in here, come on. We laughed a lot, and both the hairdresser and other staff (friends who spend the afternoon chatting there, as happened previously in Spain) also had a good time "leaving the bald white boy." And hey, the shave more trouble than I've ever done, much level! Even so, Eva did not dare to touch up your bangs :-)
- Do you remember that we discussed what they were in Africa poetic giving names to things? Alla two pearls are more. In Botswana, its currency is the pula, which means "rain" and a polish are 100 Thebes, which are ... as if every thebe is a "drop of rain." And in some places there is no money to buy a good rainy season, or Mastercard or anything.
- In Botswana we have been several nights of camping in a lifetime ... and many other camping "Out of Africa." Because they slept in tents, yes, but fully furnished and even electricity. Chuuuuuuulo, cool.
- An animal eradicated in Africa: the doves. And there are many, yes, and even species than we have in our cities, sound the same! So wake up with songs from all types of birds, among them the identification of pu ... doves ... in short, as it reminded me awake in our house in Valencia, and detracted from the subject = :-)
And nothing else, to let you know that the plan for the rest of the time on this continent is still a bit in the air. Madagascar is canceled, there is the issue too upset :-( And tomorrow we rented a car and then go about 2 weeks to the south and south-central Mozambique, in addition to at least another week in South Africa. We say goodbye to Africa relaxing on Mauritius but still we could not close the flight, so we'll see!
For up within another week!