We rarely think of the slogan for the promotion of tourism in a country so successful like Nepal. If you travel to Nepal, it is likely because you like the mountains. And here is so great and so unique, that either you come for 6 months or whenever you're going to fall short. Wanting more. Wanting to return. And these are, yet we have not gone, but we have very clear that Nepal will return.
Fortunately, Nepal has meant a return to very high level they were taking our Saturdays to the small dips in India. And not just because we have essentially nature tourism, you know, the really "puts us." Almost everything in Nepal has captivated us since the beginning. It's funny how, for most of the people we have met, come to Kathmandu supposed to shock the noise level The hullabaloo of traffic, dirt, etc. For us, coming from India, was wonderful, like going back to civilization! No one has seemed to us that Nepalis have nothing to do with Hindus, but they themselves are responsible for the difference in stress have a chance (like "semos" provided with neighboring peleaos: - \\). The most obvious detail, and in my opinion quasi-comic, is that the time in Nepal is 15 minutes ahead of time in India, to say "will be by much, but we're different and ahead" =: -0 They also told us a joke that fits here: in front of Nepal, being the title of this post, the slogan for India could be "INDIA = I'll Never Do It Again! "
:-) Anyway, I'm possibly going as we are aware that many of our initial feelings in each country are strongly influenced by the lived immediately before. In fact, in our early days in Kathmandu only had 8 hours of light a day!, Crazy (although I noticed fewer tourists thanks to the hotels own generators). "Sounds of Nepal" also include "hawking" and we particularly admired the passion with which the women apply to this habit ... finolis about the Nepalis: - / Belching and farting are less common, fortunately (well, pedetes in the mountains if there are often but with the issue of acclimatization to altitude it all: -0). And now we're going, we can also count on "luck" that had landed in Nepal in the middle of the "party." The day before flying to Kathmandu, the Prime Minister resigned for failing to uphold the President for his dismissal of the Chief Staff of the Army and the Maoist unstable government went to hell. In these countries, political instability always creates a lot of unrest, because the less the transport, supplies, etc. is easy to be affected (if not worse). Moreover, here the Maoists had not been very quiet people, before ending the monarchy made only 1 year and win the first elections of the country democracticas narrowly. In short, a party, as I said. Fortunately, the atmosphere remained within an order and we had no unpleasant unexpected.
Finally, as told in the beginning all these discomforts, totally objective in our subjectivity no importance. "If that is together that at 2 days of arrival, we made the flight over the Himalayas about which I speak, and the next day we left Kathmandu to get lost for 18 days by the so-called Annapurna Circuit ... Who cares about having to dine by candlelight 3 nights in a row?
Our "walk" over 200 kms of these impressive mountains has been a joy. Once again, I'm not going to give facts and details Travel Guide style, and what these landscapes as spectacular also back to the pictures I refer. The initial time 3 days a bit cloudy assumed that we lose one of the 3 eight thousand of the circuit, Manaslu, which never had a clear view. But in return, we had many long days of immaculate, especially in the mornings, and views of the massifs of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri to fall back.
If I have to say that on this occasion, as in the mountains have so much time alone with your thoughts, final synthesis for this entry was not only painful in regard to the selection of photos ... also, even more, in the notes to be included! All has grown unusually this month, even my beard, I must admit has been the maximum that I left I never grow ... and not cool, not only pricked with Eva, also to myself: -0
Although we had been in the bag some trekings several days and upper (Kilimanjaro, Peru), the Annapurna Circuit was different in many respects. Obviously, these montañotas are unique, not only the highest in the world but, unlike for example in the Andes (the highlands is over 3000 meters) in Nepal rise from almost sea level to the more than 8000 meters 8 peaks reaching here (out of 14 worldwide). So I see enough of these giant perspectives from the base is, as they say Americans, "jaw-desencajante" ... to stay open-mouthed, in castizo. Besides
geological differences, many of the Himalayas trekings Nepali are also unique because, paradoxically, are not expreciencias savages, loneliness and "survival" on the mountain. Attempting to summit any peak above 6000 meters is another matter, but the trekking circuits run through populated areas, and pensioncillas along the road. They are small and humble, but you can make the journey without a tent or hauling food for many days (eg 18, which we did). Although isolation in pensions is not brutal, and you need your bag to sleep without pelarte, if they are warm in the shop more, and above all very grateful if you give it to rain (and so far we had been lucky with the rain in our "expeditions" above, but here we have found several days the .) We have done much grace as the restaurants of these pensions are plagaditos poster with moral corny, terrible in terms of images (usually photomontages utopian), but with some good phrases. The one we liked, "Minds, like parachutes, only work open."
To taste the colors, and I think I personally roll goes solo on the mountain, but it is very interesting to have been culturally see how they live a high percentage of Nepalis in micro-villages completely cut off by road, and where the supply takes several days to get carried by porters or, if the road permits, and burritos. Come on, I'm laughing too bad for the Bulnes in the Picos de Europa, which made them the funicular "to get them out of isolation" (a phrase of political shift to justify the destruction to promote tourism). Where locals live in villages scattered along the way, every so often, as I said also avoids having to carry lots of porters to every foreigner (Kili got along when we got the support 5 people for every tourist!), Which in turn implies that the road itself is much less crowded. Here with a carrier that will take your large backpack is more than enough, not even that if you look with the strength to carry yourself ... is not the case, at these altitudes have to save every ounce of energy and then you do not get. That if the feeling panoli is equivalent to that of other high mountain tours we have done, while you raise sorely each meter, and protect yourself from bad time with your Gore-Tex sucks and inner lining that holds -273 Kelvin and is patented by NASA, also your boots Gore-Tex waterproof to 40 meters with V-flex sole, Geox, Transpirator and ozone chamber (the chamber air is obsolete), and finally your raincoat two pieces of course, Gore also Tex triple-layer but if chirimiri ... as you advance as bullets local carriers, which have more luck, working for Panolis like you and just wear your 15 extra pounds and at least mochilon sports shoes ... but most are loaded true wildness to the back and are fitted as grandparents in the Paseo de Benidorm (flip-flops and two rags ... and this is no joke). Occasionally there are troubles, but when it comes to steps for more than 5000 meters and temperatures below zero, "normal" that there would be many more ... but these people are of different stuff, to remove his hat!
Just as in India people were so disappointed but we in Nepal have been completely at the height of his landscapes, especially in the very small and remote mountain villages. Although the famous Sherpas live mainly in the area of \u200b\u200bEverest, Himalayan breeds are generally Mongolian descent, and not only share but also its characteristic features which are Buddhist. And among the one or the other, between her outer beauty and inner calm, we have gained full. People are extremely shy, and while extremely helpful, to the point of violent feeling come in unto you care so much. For his timidity, with the few who speak some English conversations are never long or deep ... but not of Me, and possibly the most beautiful exchanges (without understanding iota) we have had with children and the elderly. The first overflow resiliency within of great ingenuity, the second overflow pausadisimo peace with his task, and both exude a tenderness in his gestures that make you want to hug huge without exchanging a word (which, of course, never have done because it gives them a patatus) . They live in high mountains, harsh climate, and very humble ... but never lose the kindness and good humor, a 10 for the Nepalis!
[Look at the face of the great old ladies from here, by the way, awoke in me a double tenderness, because I remember my mother and I always thought, like her mother, she would have been a wonderful old lady]
For These lands are also styles, such as in Africa, the poetic names: Himalaya = "Snow mountains, Annapurna =" land of good harvests, "and for the circuit a good number of people had the surname" pani "(water) to emphasize its importance: Kalopani (" black water ", the low dark river ) Tatopani ("hot", has a hot spring), Tadapani ("near water" because there was no river nearby) ... but sometimes slip up, or they end the imagination, and put names like Darapani = "tap water" =: -0 Thanks to our Sherpas, we have learned a good number of words in Sherpa and Nepali, and some expressions are also funny, like those used to say "does heat "= achach (say checking and extending the" aes "to indicate that haseee muuusha calo, quiyo, aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaachachaaaaa), o" cold "= achuchu (say, emphasizing the" ues "shrug your shoulders while signal scratches from hell = achUchU).
Who know (worth mentioning)
For almost 3 weeks in the Annapurna, we share almost 15 hours a day with our guide (Lama) and our porters (Raise and Lakpa). The three Sherpas, originating in the Everest region, but each with their quirks and personalities as diverse ... however did (did) a great group, and our coexistence with them was very enriching for Eva and me. Thanks to Lama fluent English, we speak with, and indirectly through you, with Suba and Lakpa, a thousand and one things. Of course we talked at length about their language, their culture, their traditions, their way of life. And of course on Buddhism. Not will have much influence on the character of the people, but little you have, are so charming that wakes you up more interest in their religion. Although not born to be a religion and the "gods" appeared later ... being a purist, only concerns the spiritual enrichment from a certain individual and there is no god, no rules to save the soul, is rather a philosophy of life, I like ... although eventually emerged hybrids and now for most is a full-fledged religion.
Besides our 3 Sherpas, the mountain circuit with plenty of matches like you, with whom you share pensions and dinner. Many are lovers of the mountain just like us, different people with whom talks have fun and share your reverie with such a landscape. As Noel and Maite, two in Madrid that had combined the trip to Everest Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp ... Maquinolas tiny!, Have fun the two days we spent with them. In a fairly high percentage are people who, like us, is also traveling for several months, as Umberto, Italian to us together to lend a hand exceeding the Thorung La (5416m), who worked at a finance and he had been fired in October, so he decided to sling a backpack rather than wait at home for the gigs will fall (according to this complicated the calico).
and is also consistent in this part of the world, mainly Buddhist, with many Westerners uneasy, if not downright disappointed with the scale of values \u200b\u200bprevailing in the "developed" world, and who go looking for spiritual answers. As by definition are people intellectually restless, maverick, a good number of them are interesting characters, as Narendra and Michaela. She is Swiss and, after disenchanted with his work and life in general, leads several years, spending more time in India than in Europe. But the story is even more interesting American original whose name we never knew (Narendra is his name Hindi), working in India with Mrs. Ama (woman of hugs, as it sounds because I frequently travel to Europe, Spain included - http://www.amritapuri.org/ ). Both were really lovely, we spent quite a few dinners together and some other day trek also share the road, chatting about life ... but not "evangelize", Narendra without going too far failed to move their beliefs without prior warning, and its commitment to them much larger than the average because it had virtually ceased everything to work 9 months per year with Ama.
But there are also many others who understand quickly to find "something", because they are ... for that, just very lost: - / What I do not mean that, at the first hurdle, you release their soliloquies on how close you are by Nirvana have mixed wisely ¼ kilo of Hinduism, with a liter of Buddhism and a pinch of philosophy Bruce Lee ("be water, my friend"), all cooked slowly in a water bath. Real desire to have waited on occasion that some of these geeks complete its propaganda and asked me what my particular philosophy of life, to see which side they placed the basic and detail my vision of patented "Carpe Diem et Requiescat in Pace" (= learn to live the moment and enjoy this life to death, without grandiose claims) ... but never took the opportunity, curiously none of these was interested in much more than listening to himself.
Finally, we had a brief but interesting encounter with a Hindu in the middle of the circuit, asking with genuine interest to learn English we were on the Muslim occupation of Spain. "Y. .. How can you bear it ???". No comments. That
read long ago did not comment on our reading, possibly because he thought we were going to carry a higher rate of books "devoured" per month ... but neither of sabbatical leaves of escaparsete the time between your fingers, hear :-) Removing a couple of books that have not reached the level to mention, I finally finish my biography of Mandela. Highly recommended. Especially as so humble, so natural, so "ordinary" that has to tell a quite extraordinary life. It's great as I moved the doubts, fears, etc ... that anyone would have in such complex situations as he lived, and thus it dismantles its own myth, and you about what they should feel and think many other leaders whose work trivialize. Wasted basically humanity. Besides
Mandela, the last two books we've read have been curious about all by the contrast between them. Or, on second thought, as are more similarities than differences. "Maps for Lost Lovers" is about the terrible life of immigrant Pakistanis in England, terrible as long as his resignation to his beliefs and culture was invalid and, therefore, their adaptation to their new country was also zero. Not much of a will have many Muslim customs described in the book, but ... are terrifying. "The Dice Man" is about another character also lost, but in this case a famous American psychologist, totally dissatisfied with your life and incapable of self-psychoanalysis with skill (it is a brutal critique the world of psychologists), decides to give little by little all the decisions of his life as random. Schizophrenic, you can imagine.
Finally, Eva has read "Chasing the Monsoon", the adventures of a lover of meteorology that is dedicated to following these rains in its annual tour of India. Original in approach, but little more, it seems.
we eat (and drink)
The momos, a Tibetan dish consisting of a sort of dumplings stuffed with vegetables, chicken, veal, or other variations, are possibly the most interesting thing we've tried the local cuisine (on especially when they were steamed, not fried). Besides, I love the name because it reminds me of my childhood favorite book :-) For the rest, the kitchen Nepali is basic, very basic. The dhal baat (rice with lentil puree) is the quintessence, and particularly noteworthy because they are able to eat it every day for lunch and dinner! ------------------------
I can not conclude without mentioning how much we have enjoyed in the mountain of "sunsets conscious" that we love. Moreover, in many cases were "indirect" because we did not see the sun go down directly, but we saw her reflection in the huge peaks slowly disappear. As a general rule we tend to do a lot less "sunrises aware," the time for that :-), but as you live in the mountains with the sun we have seen too many precious.
And now, to where? Then we had many, MANY win our next stage, the Hindu Himalayan region of Ladakh in. For that to give another opportunity for another part of India and to smooth our first impression of the country. And also, of course, to return to the mountain even if a few days. But unfortunately the flights to Leh, capital of Ladakh, are soaring, and the alternative is 3 days bus through mountain passes over 5000 meters, which are newly open (and barely), so that 3 days can be fired if something goes wrong ... then enjoy just about 10 days of that. With pain in our heart, we decided to discard, so after a brief stop in Delhi and one in Hong Kong, began our journey through Southeast Asia (Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia ... that have more time to finally include it if unforeseen circumstances).
So, one last time (also used in Nepal) Namaste! Juan and Eva
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